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ConferencesNANPA's Seventh Annual Summit Viva Las Vegas! By Michael P. Thompson, NANPA Director of Communications Like some divine sculptor, the Colorado River molded the landscape of the West, its muddy waters pounding away over millions of years at rock and earth, from the Rocky Mountains through the deserts to the Gulf of California. Slowly, the river carved mountain ranges, deep orange sandstone canyons, rivers, streams and tiny washes that ripple like veins across the desert. Michelle Boorstein Associated Press Writer The desert ground crunches under booted feet. Bottled water sloshes in time with each step. As a hawk glides overhead, a lizard scurries up a sandstone rock wall. Scrambling through a canyon to reach a rumored waterfall feels like following a rainbow in hopes of finding the pot of gold. This Red Rock Canyon trail has no stoplights to dictate moves. Not a computer in sight. No hint of neon. No stucco. Just the sights and sounds found on miles of southern Nevada's trails. Four federal governmental agencies manage the land surrounding Las Vegas, so no one entity can single-handedly ease recreational overuse while preserving wildlife habitats. Volunteer groups, nature conservationists, hikers, mountain bikers, and equestrians have joined the search for solutions as well (so why not photographers?). The good news is that they have made progress. New trail programs now relieve overbeaten paths, while Cottonwood Valley and other areas designated for particular recreational activities add options for those wanting to flee urban life. So much work remains that the trail system can only go up from here. "Las Vegas offers one of the top ten places in the country to bike year-round a half-hour from the city," says local mountain biker Ryan Pretner. "We just need more trails." Roughly 87 percent of Nevada's land is managed by federal government agencies, primarily the BLM, and the state has 750,000 acres of designated wilderness in 14 sites Several thousand acres of wilderness study areas surround the Las Vegas Valley including the North and South McCullough Mountains, which stretch along the southeast Henderson and house ancient petroglyphs. Weather An average of 310 sunny days allows for year-round use of most Las Vegas swimming pools. While the water can be quite chilly during the winter months, sunbathing around the beautifully landscaped pools is possible almost every day. With an average rainfall of 4.19 inches, Las Vegas has an arid climate. Umbrellas are rarely needed, but do listen for occasional flash flood advisories. Although the temperature can soar to well over 100 during the summer months, the average annual temperature is 66.3. At a 2,174-foot elevation, Las Vegas' nights are comfortably cooler, even after the hottest days. with a pleasant, dry climate during the winter, and the average temperature at 47.5. Average Highs & Lows: Jan.-Mar. 63F 39F Scenic spots Ash Meadows National Wildlife Refuge At least twenty-four plants and animals found nowhere else on earth make their home at Ash Meadows, located outside Pahrump, only an hour away from Las Vegas. In the fall, the local bird population swells as migrating shorebirds stop by for nourishment. Year-round, the refuge is a favorite spot for landscape and wildlife photographers. Floyd Lamb State Park. The North valley lays claim to one of the oldest and most authentic Old Vegas spots, still known to old-timers as Tule Springs. Founded as a private ranch in 1914, the property became a dude ranch catering to rich divorcees during the '40s. The park is huge, and has the feel of an old country club or the desert resort it once was. There is a large lake full of fish and ducks, horse stables and more. If you're a historical type, you'll appreciate the old wellhouse and main building in this true desert oasis. The buildings have not really been kept up, but park officials promise that the state is beginning to think about restoring them. There's century-old trees and excellent paths for walking or pedaling--both on and off road. A great place to spend an afternoon outside, it is about 20 minutes from downtown Las Vegas.(702)486-5413. Red Rock Canyon Recreation Lands The red-rock strata formations exposed in the area record more than 500 million years of geologic history. The visitors center offers displays explaining the geology, history, and plant and animal life of the area and is open 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. daily. Red Rock Canyon is located 20 miles west of Las Vegas on West Charleston Boulevard on the scenic Red Rock loop. (702)363-1921. Valley of Fire State Park Valley of Fire is Nevada's first state park, so named because of the fiery red sandstone that has been sculpted by the wind and rain into spectacular domes, spirals, beehives and other unusual formations. The park was formed 150 million years ago from the shifting sand dunes. Visitors can bike, picnic, camp and hike on interpretive trails. This 35,000-acre park is an hour drive north on Interstate 15.(702)397-2088. Pueblo Park Pueblo Park offers the best example of why people chose to live in this frying pan in the first place. Basically an arroyo left in its natural state, every part of this desert park is alive, from the native vegetation to the roaming (and usually harmless) reptiles that scurry by. A visit here is absolutely vital on extended visits, especially after it rains and the sweet smells of the desert dazzle the senses like something out of a western novel. Except for the jogging trail, benches, basketball half-court and small patches of grass added by the city parks division (mostly at the eastern end), this might be how Las Vegas looked before the federal government chased the Indians away and the gaming-fueled progress ate every square yard of nature in its path. Red Rock Canyon The Bureau of Land Management (BLM) controls 2.9 million acres of land in Clark County. Red Rock Canyon, the biggest chunk, is the area most popular among hikers. It will also likely be the first to be encroached upon by new development along West Charleston Boulevard. The canyon's thirteen-mile scenic- loop drive, completed in 1978, acts as the gateway to most of the trailheads. Each route has unique characteristics. Taken as a whole, the system offers several difficulty levels and presents landscapes ranging from forest-covered mountains to cactus-spotted canyons. Because budgetary limits and a small staff challenge the BLM's ability to maintain the trails, the agency depends on the volunteer efforts of programs like Friends of Red Rock Canyon, and Adopt-a-Trail. Although packed trails testify to an increasing population of hikers and the need to develop additional routes, expansion as well as upkeep usually falls to the volunteers, who spend 25,000 hours a year preserving the paths. "With our manpower budget on the decline," says Phillip Guerrero, BLM public affairs specialist, "working with the community is our only option." Communication between the BLM and other area agencies will determine the use and the future of the southern Nevada trail system. At Sunrise Mountain, for example, the BLM and the county jointly decide which trails to close due to erosion problems and which to leave open for hikers, mountain bikers, and four-wheelers. A proposal developed by the BLM with the help of the United States Forest Service and the county would provide multiuse trail alternatives to Red Rock Canyon, says Gene Arneson, BLM recreational coordinator. As part of the planning process, input has been gathered from area Native Americans and other community members about future trail development in the region that extends north of the Le Madre Mountains, includes the eastern portion of Lee and Kyle Canyons, and stretches just south of Cotton-wood Pass and Bird Springs Valley. Cottonwood Valley In the best interest of preserving nature and furthering human safety, bicycles are not permitted on the hiking trails of Red Rock Canyonwith the exception of the loop road. Recognizing the popularity of the sport, however, the BLM dedicated Cottonwood Valley, a parcel of land southwest of the canyon, to biking. "You either provide what is needed or deal with the controversy," says Arneson. Originally formed by wild horses and burros, these trailsaltered and expanded by the mountain-bike community, equestrian community, BLM, and forest servicehave become the area's biking mecca. Some sixty-seven miles of trails begin in and around Blue Diamond. More start off Highway 160 at mile marker seventeen, where a newly erected kiosk provides information near a large gravel parking lot. Within Cottonwood Valley, a combination of single track (very narrow dirt trails), technical single track (narrow dirt trails with obstacles), washes, and dirt roads wind in and out of canyons. Some trails challenge the strongest biker; others can be tackled by risk-taking novices. Mount Charleston And Lee Canyon During scorching summer months, the high elevations of Lee Canyon beckon the Valley's overheated bicyclists. But here, as in Red Rock Canyon, their access is limited. Bristlecone Trail, one of the most popular in the country, is the only one in Lee Canyon that allows bikes. Its natural challenges, in the form of rocks and roots to maneuver around, are compounded by large numbers of hikers and horses. Trail etiquette suggests that bikers yield to hikers and everyone yield to horses. The area tends to get congested, since, according to Kristine Absher, public affairs officer for the forest service, some thousand hikers a day use the trail. "Why won't they build more bike trails up here?" wonders cyclist Adam Henry after riding Bristlecone. "If it's the money, we'll pay to use the trails." Lack of manpower and resources impede the building of new trails, explains Tim Short, recreation manager for the forest service. Plans that could become reality within three years will bring identification, signage, and maintenance to the unofficial system of trails in the Blue Tree area, near the intersection of Max Canyon and Lee Canyon Roads, and in Telephone Canyon, off the north side of Kyle Canyon Highway. Short also recommends biking on jeep trails around the Spring Mountains. However limited the biking choices in Lee Canyon and on Mount Charleston, the hiking proves spectacular. Cooler temperatures, breathable air, an abundance of easy-to-difficult trails, and usually perfect conditions leave users thinking they've died and gone to hiking heaven. "It's amazing," says Matt Purdue, author of The Adventure Guide to Nevada. "You climb through six different biological life zones on the way to Charleston Peak." Due out in November, his book offers a comprehensive guide to the major trails and outdoor recreation areas in Nevada. After hiking everywhere, Purdue confidently names the Charleston Loop, the route to Charleston Peak, the best hike in the country. There and on the peak hikes of Lee Canyon, breathtaking views stimulate the elated impression of having climbed to the top of the world. Lake Mead For a different world, jet out to Lake Mead, which resembles the surface of the moon with a massive built-in swimming pool. The National Park Service manages the five main trails along Northshore Road. Easy hikes offer great views of the lake. Like the BLM, the park service realized the need to join forces to improve its trail systems. "It's important for even two managing bodies, like the county and the park service, to work together to add to the quality of life for our community," says Karen Whitney, public affairs officer for the park service. Efforts by the county and such volunteer groups as the Southwest Gas Hikers and the Boy Scouts of America will eventually expand the Historic Railroad Trail down to Hoover Dam. Over the next three to five years, the park service and the county also hope to complete the River Mountain Trail's forty-mile loop through Boulder City and Henderson. Bicyclists may also venture on the Historic Railroad Trail, River Mountain Trail, and the Lakeshore Trailall easy, unchallenging rides. U.S. Department Of Fish And Wildlife Fish and Wildlife controls 750,000 acres known as the Desert National Wildlife Refuge. The road off U.S. 95 looks initially like someone's driveway, but leads to the Corn Creek Field Station and the only formal nature trail on the refuge. Ecosystems range from cacti desert to ponderosa pine forest in the higher elevations of the Sheep Mountains. Up-close looks at sand dunes, ponds with natural springs, and the rare Pahrump pool fish habitat are available, but well-developed trails don't exist on the refuge. Some paths have been worn that are suitable for hiking or biking. All users should watch where they step and stay on gravel roads or existing paths, since the delicate ecosystem is stressed by the sole of a boot or the tread of a tire. The refuge is not well known and few people, therefore, take advantage of its recreational possibilities, including camping. Here, it's possible to hike for miles and camp without seeing another soul. "We're looking closely at our master plan for various recreational opportunities for the public," says Ted Stance, Fish and Wildlife deputy project leader. "We need to address issues through a public process so we can respond to needsmaybe not now but hopefully within the next ten years." The agency consults the BLM, forest service, park service, and county on where to construct trails that will not directly interfere with animal habitats throughout southern Nevada. Progressive early vision gave Fish and Wildlife a head start on conservation and preservationefforts that, according to Jim Moore, director of public lands conservation for the Nature Conservancy of Nevada, are moving higher on several other agencies' agendas. Grapevine Canyon Early Native Americans left their markliterally and liberallyin the Newberry Mountains between Searchlight and Laughlin. Ancient petroglyphs are especially abundant in Grapevine Canyon, where park rangers point out rock art during guided hikes. Ubehebe Crater Several thousand years ago, the Ubehebe volcano blew its top. The eruption was so violent that it made a molehill out of a mountain and formed a crater in the middle that's eight hundred feet deep and a half mile across. From the parking lot, the "Big Ubehebe" can be seen. To the right of it are several smaller craters. About 150 feet below the Ubehebe's rim, a distinct color change occurs. The darker hue on top is actually a deep bed of cinders left by the eruption. Hikers can skirt the rim of this massive hole or hike to the bottom of it, where trails lead in every direction. The descent is steep, so good hiking boots are in order. Hot Springs Some complain that it takes a pretty imaginative beholder to find beauty in southern Nevada's desert, but the problem may be due to not looking closely enough. How many of us, for example, have ever soaked in a natural hot springs? Thanks to geothermal activity, the wild underside of our land, Nevada has been blessed with about three hundred of these oases. Thanks to geothermal activity, the wild underside of our land, Nevada has been blessed with about three hundred hot springs. Historically, hot springs were far from overlooked. Native Americans and miners enjoyed them for swimming, bathing, even healing. Many today swear by hot mineral baths for relief from everything from gout to rheumatics. There are a number of hot springs within driving distance of Las Vegas. Hoover Dam Hoover Dam is the highest concrete dam in the Western Hemisphere. The dam, which rises 725 feet above the Colorado River, supplies power to several states. Hoover Dam is 30 miles south of Las Vegas through Boulder City on Interstate 93. (702)293-8367. Lake Mead National Recreation Area Lake Mead, created by Hoover Dam, is the largest man-made lake in the Western Hemisphere, with 600 miles of shoreline. Four marinas offer houseboat and ski rentals. Lake Mead is just outside Boulder City on Interstate 93. (702)293-8907 Mount Charleston Scenic Mt. Charleston is Nevada's fifth highest mountain at 11,918 feet. Lee Canyon offers skiing in season and weekend scenic tour rides during the summer. Mt. Charleston is located 36 miles north of Las Vegas on Highway 95 in the Toiyabe National Forest. (702)593-9500. Nevada Test Site Nevada Test Site is a living history record. Archaeologists have found Native American pottery and rock art as well as artifacts of early settlers in the Great Basin. Because most of the Test Site has been untouched for decades, artifacts there are in a condition superior to those located where vandals can reach them. The tour seems to step back in time to a more primitive Nevada. Off The Beaten Trail In an outdoor enthusiast's ideal scenario, southern Nevadans would be able to find a non-motor-vehicle route from Mount Charleston to Red Rock Canyon, or Cottonwood Valley to Lake Meadall areas that, for now, remain self-contained. "A project like that would be exciting as long as it didn't interfere with other trail development," Purdue says. "The federal agencies would have to be careful not to pull time and resources away from improving what already exists." As for those itching to blaze off-trail into the wilderness, Dave Wolf of the BLM warns, "take care not to get into anything you cannot get out of." Branch Whitney, author of Hiking Las Vegas: 60 Hikes Within 60 Minutes of the Strip, is developing a book that ventures farther into the Lake Mead, Valley of Fire, and Mount Charleston areas. Many of Whitney's trails require scrambling over sandstone from one landmark to another. One extremely strenuous hike leads to Rainbow Peak in Red Rock Canyon, where only fifteen people have ever been. Whitney believes that when there are not enough visible trails to mountain peaks, people make their own. "Turtlehead is the only peak in Red Rock marked by the BLM," he says. "I've found hikes to every peak." Whitney feels strongly that a lack of defined trails leads to ruined vegetation, a philosophy shared by the Sierra Club. "We make people aware of what's out there and what's worth protecting," explains Dave Hardy, the club's trail leader. Given increased recreational use and the encroachment of the Valley's rapidly developing areas, everyone needs to work toward the twofold goals of improving recreational land for users while protecting and conserving ecosystems. All the agencies controlling this land need the backing of the communityin the forms of volunteerism and public input. "Whether you hike once a year or once a day," says Purdue, "you need to get involved in the fight to preserve our open space. We all need to know there's a place to go to wash the spirit clean." City Attractions BELLAGIO GALLERY OF FINE ART A $300 million collection of 19th and 20th Century masterpieces. Works include paintings by Monet, Renoir, Cezanne, Van Gogh, Gaughin, Matisse, Picasso and others LAS VEGAS NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM - Marine life, Nevada's wildlife and animated dinosaurs are featured, plus children's hands-on room. LIED DISCOVERY CHILDREN'S MUSEUM Over 100 hands-on exhibits in the arts, humanities and sciences at one of the country's largest children's museums MARJORIE BARRICK MUSEUM OF NATURAL HISTORY Exhibits of archaeology, anthropology and natural history of Mexico and the Southwest plus traveling exhibit gallery. NEVADA STATE MUSEUM AND HISTORICAL SOCIETY The museum depicts southern Nevada's plants, animals, fossils and history from the Ice Age to modern times Read about some of NANPA member's Top Sites to See Near Vegas
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